Cosmetics Behind The Scene: Birth of a Natural Cosmetics Line

Berit Joosep, the founder of Berrichi natural cosmetics, admits that, initially, she was frightened by the extensive requirements for the production of cosmetics and she needed to take time to learn about them in detail. “Now, having been producing cosmetics for several years, registering new products and applying for certificates are easier. However, you have to keep in mind that the process can take a long time,” explains Berit. In the formulation of her cosmetics, she collaborated with Tallinn University researchers. This collaboration was driven by the key component of her line, a red algae, as Tallinn University has conducted research into algaes for over twenty years.

It all starts with the desire to create

For Berit, there is a lot of creativity in the creation of the cosmetic recipe and product development phase. In her case, it always begins with her need for a specific product which propels her to create it in her mind. “I once thought I couldn’t ideate, but when I imagine a cosmetic product that I would like to make, I start with the feeling I would like to experience on my skin. I have tried a lot of different oils on my own skin so I know exactly how an oil is absorbed, slides on the skin and what beneficial properties it has,” says Berit about her creative process.

First, she decides on what oils to use in the cream while she also considers the emotion the person might feel using the product to be very important. Another important factor is the various possible effects of the oils on the skin, which is always the crux of cosmetic product research.

A basic consideration for all Berrichi ingredients is that they have to be of natural, vegan and, if possible, organic origin. And while plants often have to go through some kind of extraction process to yield the desired ingredients, these procedures have to meet certain standards for the final product to retain the neutral, vegan and/or organic label.

The Ecocert label: The stamp of reliability

Berrichi products have been certified by  ECOCERT, an organic certification organization, founded in France in 1991 that conducts inspections in over 80 countries, making it one of the largest organic certification organizations in the world. It is quite difficult to apply for their certificate, Berit explains. It took Berrichi over a year to go through the application process for the ECOCERT COSMOS certificate. So when on August 7, 2020, Berrichi received  confirmation that the process was completed and that the Berrichi products are certified, champagne bottle corks flew and the cornerstone success was duly celebrated.

An ECOCERT certification is not a one-time event to be only repeated when a formula is changed. ECOCERT rules must be followed very strictly to maintain the certification; Once a year there is an audit of all documentation, handling of products and raw materials, and production processes. If the audit identifies any violations, they issue a corrective warning. If they find many deviations from the rules, there is a real risk of losing the ECOCERT COSMOS label without a chance of remediation.

For Berit, it was very important to get this label; As a consumer herself, she trusts the ECOCERT COSMOS certificate the most. “Having completed their certification process myself, I can be sure that other cosmetics manufacturers who have also certified their products have passed the same standards and their products meet certain conditions. Even the raw materials used to make the certified products go through a background check. The production location of each ingredient is inspected and verified to meet the appropriate standards,” explains Berit. She highly recommends products with this label.

Collaboration with researchers

The practical tests and trials of the products are performed by the university. Berit feels fortunate that through various contacts, the Department of Natural and Health Sciences of Tallinn University reached out to Rando Tuvikes, well-esteemed chemist, to lead the research.

The first experiments investigated whether the alga Furcellaria Lumbricalis growing in Estonian waters is suitable for the cosmetics industry. The subsequent cooperation, says Berit, can only work with complete trust that the end product will be one she envisioned.

Berit feels very appreciative of this cooperation. “I have gained so much experience and knowledge from the university. We just finished the facial toner and make-up removal oil. In the case of a tonic, it was very important to adjust the pH in the production. When the pH is out of balance, the acids do not work. It seems very simple, but if you are not a biochemist, it is not that simple at all,” she adds.

Creating functional cosmetics is a difficult challenge

Chemist Rando Tuvikene says that the complexity of product development depends on several factors. Firstly, the manufacturer’s requirements for the components of the product have to be answered: whether everything must be “natural” or “eco”, whether only ingredients of plant origin can be used, whether there is a desire to use a unique component whose properties and stability are not yet known, etc. The complexity of product development is also affected by the total number of ingredients.

Mr. Tuvikene acknowledges that the coexistence of many different components increases the risk that some of them do not fit well into the combination, that their beneficial properties do not stand out, that the consistency of the product becomes unstable, or that long-term storage problems arise. For some special purpose products, a large number of components is justified, but in many cases it is not.

“So we should strive to achieve the same functionality with as few ingredients as possible. While this can be a major challenge, it can significantly reduce a product’s ecological footprint. It also reduces the chance of allergic reactions in people with more sensitive skin. However, the most difficult thing is to put together a product that does have the advertised effects. Technically, anyone can start mixing cosmetics, but creating something that really works is a big and time-consuming challenge,” says Tuvikene.

According to Maria Martšenko, chief specialist of product innovation at Tallinn University, product development starts with raising a problem and generating an idea. The best ideas are then screened and can be further developed into a concept. This is followed by prototyping and testing. In the next phase, the final shape of the product is tested. In the last stage, the product is manufactured in large quantities and transferred to production.

“During product development, certain obstacles may arise that may not allow the product to be created exactly as originally envisioned. But the goal of product development is to find a way to make the product possible,” explains Ms. Martšenko.